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GREEK TELEVIZION ET1: DOCUMENTARY OF LABDANUM

Use labdanum Menu

LABDANUM RESIN.

Working (first time)
          Products:
                 i).Labdanum concret.
                 ii)Labdanum absolute.
                 iii)Solutions.

Use:

i) Perfume

Labdanum is a resinous perfume ingredient derived from Cistus creticus. It does best in amber-type scents, and has a woody or animal-like smell. This material's complex fragrance resembles that of ambergris, and works in many of the same perfume recipes, including scents designed for both sexes. Labdanum was historically collected from the coats of grazing animals that had eaten the rockrose. It has been prized as an incense, perfume, and ingredient in herbal medicine for centuries, and its use is documented in ancient Greece, Egypt, and Israel.

This material plays an important part in perfumes that reproduce the smell of amber oil or artificial musk due to its smoky and earthy notes. Labdanum may be listed as a sweet, woody, or musky ingredient in perfumes and perfume oils. It is often used to replace ambergris in older perfume formulations, since that ingredient is banned in many countries due to its association with whaling. Labdanum appears in men's, women's, and unisex scents since its musky smell is not considered to be particularly masculine or feminine.

People have used this material as a scent and medicinal ingredient since the ancient period. This perfume ingredient was often mixed with natural myrrh in incense preparations mentioned in the Bible, and was also used by Hippocrates and by Roman physicians to treat coughs, colds, and sores. Ancient doctors also used labdanum to treat some kinds of infections. Components of this resin, called labdane diterpenes, have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties in laboratory tests.

ii) Soap

iii) wax with labdanum.

Timothy Han.

A dark and mysterious essence, its distinctly exotic combination conjured up by the woody base of Sandalwood and the musky Labdanum, a resin from the small Rock Rose shrub. The scent is finished with a top note of Black Pepper.

Timothy Han candles are 100% natural; handcrafted from pure essential oils, an unbleached cotton wick and soy wax free from genetically modified ingredients, herbicides and pesticides.

The aromatherapy grade essential oils each carry their own unique therapeutic properties capable of helping to revitalise and stimulate or relax and alleviate stress.

Perfumery.

 The perfume of labdanum belong Bases Notes in perfumery.

Chypre family

Chypre is the name of a family (or concept) of perfumes that are characterised by an accord composed of citrus top-notes, a floral middle, and a mossy-animalic base-note derived from oak moss and musks. Chypre perfumes may be modified by other notes such as patchouli (most often), vetiver, labdanum, ambergris and sandalwood oil.

History

The term chypre is French for Cyprus, and goes back to François Coty who created in 1917 a perfume of the same name from fragrance materials that came predominantly from Mediterranean countries. Coty's ‘Chypre’ became the most typical representative of a whole family of related fragrances, albeit perfumes of similar style had already been created throughout the 19th century. The chypre concept is characterised by the contrast between the fresh citrus accord and the woody-oakmoss fond; often patchouli is considered an indispensable element as well. Other main fragrance families besides chypres are fougères, orientals, gourmands, and florals. The chypre accord is used in both male and female perfumery. A notable literary reference to chypre is contained in the novel The Maltese Falcon by Dashiell Hammett (Knopf, 1929), in which the character Joel Cairo is described as carrying a chypre-scented handkerchief as part of his homosexual persona.

Chypre perfume.


Featured Review: Tom Ford Private Blend Moss Breches.

by Sali Oguri
NY Fragrance Examiner

It's been rumored Tom Ford Private Blend Moss Breches (2007) is being discontinued, a terrible shame if it's true considering Moss Breches, along with Tobacco Vanille, is among my very favorites in the designer's ultraniche line.  Among these, Moss Breches is far, far away from the mainstream scents of today.  It takes perfuminess to its highest level, played up by both Chypre and Oriental notes in a single composition, decadently retro in richly subdued earth tones.  It's not a fragrance I immediately liked, but it's grown on me in the same way Penhaligon's Bluebell has.  Both are what I'd refer to as "animalic", with the musky notes of labdanum and oakmoss being fairly pronounced in this dark, green Chypre blend, making it challenging to wear.  However, it also has a warm and sweet, spicy gourmand charm to it.  Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental comes to mind, except Moss Breches is a Chypre, along the lines of Sisley Eau du Soir and Paloma Picasso, just greener, with more damp earth-and-wet leaves - the deep foresty scent attributed to oakmoss.  Shiseido Koto (1985), for those of you familiar with this hard-to-find fragrance, is probably closest to it in overall scent.  Another comparison might be the discontinued Deneuve (1986), with Moss Breches being drier, dirtier, heavier and sharper.  This is a strange, complex scent for those unfamiliar with the scent of Chypre, a classical perfume accord brimming with tradition and an antiquated past.

Moss Breches.

Moss Breches, of course, would not be without mossiness.  Oakmoss and tree moss are controlled ingredients in the perfume industry since it was declared by IFRA that these age-old ingredients turn into formaldehyde upon skin contact.  Today, most of what we call moss is synthesized, but many vintage perfumes and even certain upscale perfumes do in fact contain moss.  The scent, to my nose, is like that of damp autumn leaves, a bit dirty in an outdoorsy way.  Many perfumes from the 1960s and '1970s featured oakmoss, such as Chanel N°19, Estée Lauder Aliage and Ô de Lancome.  Actually, the use of oakmoss has been around since the birth of the Chypre fragrance family, long before the legendary Coty Chypre and Guerlain Mitsouko were born  Chypre is named as such because the accord was born in Cyprus during Greco-Roman rule (Read more about Cyprus here: Cyprus the Divided Country).

Another featured note in Moss Breches is labdanum.  Labdanum is a resin traditionally used in Chypre compositions.  It's a black resin taken from goat hair after the goats had grazed on the rock rose shrub and resins collected on their fleece.  Although I'm skeptical that most Chypre fragrances today contain real labdanum taken from goat hair, the scent has remained a staple in perfumery.  It has a heavy, resinous and almost woody, as well as animalic, scent, and acts as a fixative for perfume compositions (base note), making perfumes last longer.

Although Moss Breches smells like a traditional Chypre, I'm guessing the reason I like it so much is because it has a soft, almost vanillic aspect to it as well.  The sillage is absolutely gorgeous, a dazzling mossy green.  When I wear Moss Breches, I'm reminded of Japanese tea ceremony and its dark, refined green tea (which is a bitter taste/scent (and yet I love it)).  According to Chypre Perfumes blog: "The Japanese use labdanum in their Neriko mixtures, which are used during tea ceremony".  I guess I'm not far off at all in my perception of the scent!  On the same blog, the author writes that "Egyptians used it in their Kyphi mixtures and the Hebrews burned it in their temples".  Perhaps Moss Breches is the kind of scent that can bring all kinds of deeply spiritual associations to people the world over.

History Cistus Incanus Menu

Holy plants (Plants in Holy Books)

1.       Rose of Sharon
2.       Jesus as the Rose of Sharon.

Crete.

1.      Crete is a botanical paradise
2.      Cretan Herbs

Cretan Tradition Cistus Incanus.

Cistus Incanus in Cretan tradition as:

1. Tea.
2. Cretan Tea.
3. Herbal Tea.

Cleopatra's Beauty Secrets: Magic Fragrances

Cleopatra.

How do you think why Cleopatra chose just milk and honey as the basis of her beauty secrets? A fragrance is one more component of her female appeal. In esoteric beliefs the scent of honey meant the scent of nature. It's naturally sweet. A child, youth, and juvenility smell of milk. That's why milk and honey, in the philosophy of belief, meant the combination of natural sweetness and youth, literally ‘a young sweet woman'. It is no accident that both Caesar and Marcus Antonius couldn't resist Cleopatra's charm of her deeply subconscious natural beauty.

In addition to these scents, Cleopatra liked labdanum and myrrh. These mysterious and magnetic odors calmed her men down who were strong but hot-tempered and ready to give short shrift. Probably, beauty of Cleopatra made men feel good beside her while they had a rest in comfort and enjoyed bliss. Beauty is the real power, isn't it?

Akkadian Empire (5.000 year ago)

ladunu, ladanu are Akkadian works.

lab·da·num (lbd-nm) also lad·a·num (ldn-m)
n.
A resin of certain Old World plants of the genus Cistus, yielding a fragrant essential oil used in flavorings and perfumes.
[Middle English, from Medieval Latin lapdanum, labdanum, alteration of Latin ldanum, from Greek ldanon, ldanon, from ldon, *ldon, rockrose, of Semitic origin; akin to Akkadian ladinnu, ladunu, an aromatic.]

labdanum [ˈlæbdənəm], ladanum
n

Akkadian

(Chemistry / Elements & Compounds) a dark resinous juice obtained from various rockroses of the genus Cistus, used in perfumery and in the manufacture of fumigants and medicinal plasters
[Latin, from Greek ladanon, from lēdon rockrose, from Semitic]

Neolithic (10.000 years ago)

In prehistoric (neolithic) North Africa there lived, amongst many peoples, a tribe of nomadic goat-herders. Occasionally, these people noticed that their goats acquired a blackish, sticky substance on their fleeces and eventually they realised that if this substance were removed and burned, it provided a very fragrant smoke.

As a brief aside it is worth mentioning that the use of aromatic materials as incense is the origin of perfumery and of aromatherapy. The word perfume itself comes from the Latin words per fumum, meaning through smoke.

Having lived in North Africa, not far from the Nile delta, I can appreciate what kind of impact a pleasant smell had on the people who lived there at that time. Even living with the benefits of hot water and soap one starts to smell like a cheese one or two hours after a shower. In summer the coolest time of day is in the middle of the night. Even then, with all windows open and movement restricted as near as possible to nil, the perspiration pours off as if one were in a sauna.

The value of a fragrant substance was apparent to our nomads and they isolated the origin of the black sticky stuff. The goats ‘collected’ it as they grazed among the rock roses (labdanum). It can’t have been long before the goats were removed from the equation. The invention of the ladanesterion, a flail with leather thongs later named after the plant by the Greeks, may have been the first technology to be related to aromatics. With it the nomads could flail the plants, the resin sticking to the thongs. From these it could be more conveniently squeeged off than it could from goats’ fleeces. (They actually used sand to separate the labdanum from the ladanesterion, the sand being easily removed later).

Osiris keeps in his hands the royal symbols of ancient Egypt

Naturally enough, the labdanum resin so collected was much in demand and the nomads eventually gave up goat herding to become labdanum traders. They were so successful in this that they became the first dynasty of Egypt. If you examine pictures of pharoahs or of Osiris (the imagery is largely interchangeable) you will see that the arms are crossed over the chest, one hand bearing a crook (a legacy of the goat-herding days), the other hand bearing a flail (ladanesterion). The pharoah wears a false beard (even if female!) actually made from goat hair which was evidently stuck to the chin using labdanum.

The importance of aromatics in antiquity is thrown into sharp relief when it is realised that that the humble rock rose is responsible for the iconic imagery so well known to us five thousand years later even if we have largely forgotten that the roots of this imagery are in incense (per fumum).

It was Dioscorides who first mentioned the ladanesterion method of collection but the first written mention of labdanum as a modern medicine occurred in 1589 when it was listed in Dispensatorium Noricum. Its use as a medicine does seem to stretch back into antiquity though, because, although its principal uses were in incense and in the mummification process (along with the much better known frankincense and myrrh) there are ancient references to its use for liver and stomach problems as well as a remedy for breathing difficulties and for the loss of the hair.

The essential oil has a specific gravity of 0.925 and its boiling point can be as high as 280 deg., one of the reasons why it is an excellent fixative. Another reason is that, in the right proportion, it imparts an ambergris* note which is invaluable in some types of fine fragrances and lavender compounds.

*Ambergris is a pathological secretion of the sperm whale and was extensively used in former times as a fixer and toner for perfumes. While whaling is still carried out by Norwegian and Japanese barbarians it is very important for us not to use it. When whaling is a thing of the past, all ambergris appearing on the market will be ‘found’ and consequently usable.